BALITA!
|
A Busy Bee
in the Hamburger Hive
If McDonald's is the Goliath of fast food,
Tony Tan's Jollibee is its Filipino David
THE Philippines is a huge embarrassment
to McDonald's. Filipinos are as mad about American culture as they are
about fast food, and in 1981, when the golden arches first went up in Manila,
everybody assumed that McDonald's would rule the Filipino market, as so
many others. At the time, Tony Tan was a local entrepreneur who, with his
siblings, had just turned a few ice-cream parlours into burger kitchens.
He was soon getting friendly advice that he was still young enough to do
something else for a living. At best, said his friends, he could buy the
McDonald's franchise.
Mr Tan did nothing of the sort. Instead,
he chose to do battle with the invading global giant. And a strange thing
happened. Within four years, Mr Tan's chain, Jollibee, had become the market
leader. By the 1990s, Jollibee was trouncing its rival so thoroughly that
McDonald's was forced to choose between retreat and imitation. McDonald's
denies that it has opted for the latter, but that is how it looks—and tastes—to
ilipinos. Even so, they continue to pass it by in favour of Jollibee (see
chart). Other global heavyweights appear to have no hope whatever. Burger
King's Filipino franchisee is trying to sell out but, after over a year,
it is still looking for a buyer.
Like many successful entrepreneurs in the
Philippines, Tony Tan is ethnically Chinese. His parents immigrated from
Fujian, once one of China's poorest provinces, and his father made ends
meet as a cook in a Chinese temple. Hanging round the kitchen early in
his life, Mr Tan apparently developed unusually sensitive taste buds. A
colleague considers them downright surreal. She remembers witnessing Mr
Tan tasting a chicken and spotting a minor ingredient that he had noticed
only once before—years ago, in a
Chicago food stall—and which he at once
set out to track down.
His palate, indeed, seems to have been
Mr Tan's greatest source of confidence throughout his struggle against
McDonald's. Modest in every other respect, he never once doubted that he
could make better food—or at least “better” to Filipinos. To this day,
he still attends the weekly three-hour meetings of Jollibee's “new products
board”. The decisions made there find their way into “the commissariat”,
a top-secret spice kitchen and the nerve center from which Jollibee outlets
are supplied.
Describing Mr Tan's recipes is not easy.
Generally speaking, the Philippines is not famous for its food, and cardiologists
consider it downright evil. In their own kitchens, Filipinos tend to cook
meat with stunning amounts of sugar and salt, and to soak it in bagoong,
a sort of brine. But no matter how poor, they like to splash out every
so often on fast food. And then they like burgers that are sweet and juicy,
spaghetti that is saccharine and topped with hot dogs (no Italian would
recognise it), beef with honey and rice, and, for dessert, variations on
the mango theme. All this Jollibee provides, whereas McDonald's, perhaps
hidebound by its global standards, never quite seems to get it right.
Nor is Ronald, the Americans' red-haired
clown, any match for the jolly bee, a ubiquitous icon in the Philippines.
The Tans chose the bee because they thought it epitomised the Filipino
spirit of light-hearted, everyday happiness. Like Filipino working folk,
explains Mr Tan, “the bee hops around and produces sweet things for life,
and is happy even though it is busy.”
Indeed, the corporate jolliness is infectious,
and as much a part of Mr Tan's success as his recipes. Jollibee's staff
outsmile McDonald's by a huge stretch. This January, they started greeting
customers with a gesture adopted from the sign language of the deaf—a vertical
stroke for “bee” and hands shovelling towards the heart for “happy”—which
kids have started using in playgrounds. Staff call customers and one another
“sir” and “mom”, which is at once casual and respectful in the Philippines.
From the cleaners to Mr Tan, who is not above dressing up as a rapper and
doing an awful Puff Daddy imitation for the delight of his staff, everyone
at Jollibee projects fun.
All this success does not seem to have
gone to Mr Tan's head—yet. He refuses to say “I”, and habitually deflects
credit to “us”, meaning siblings and colleagues. But success may be taking
a different toll. Of late, Mr Tan has discovered global ambition. “It's
on his mind all the time now,” says a colleague.
Goliath in the making?
The real reason why he did not bid for
the McDonald's domestic franchise all those years ago, he now claims, was
that he already envisioned expanding overseas. That may be true, but it
would have been a remarkably long-term vision for a man who was, at the
time, a small entrepreneur in a poor country. In any case, the expansion
has certainly begun. Jollibee recently opened eight stores in California,
and a few more across Asia. It had to close one in China, but it is now
regrouping for another push. In time, Jollibee means to be everywhere.
So far, this has been a low-risk strategy,
because Jollibee aims mostly at the diaspora of overseas Filipinos. But
in order to go global, Mr Tan concedes, Jollibee soon has to break that
Filipino link and reach out to other nationalities. As ever, though, he
feels that he can, because “we have an edge over all the American brands
in food”. His brothers and sisters on the board are less convinced. What
an irony it would be if a Filipino David were to become vulnerable to the
slings of Davids elsewhere.
Source: The Economist, Feb
28th 2002 |
"Pinoy Viagra" Franchising
MANILA -- As Ariel Manalac cooks up a fresh
batch of duck embryos, he sees a future of McDonald's-style franchises
selling gourmet varieties of this local aphrodisiac to Manila's elite.
Balut, as these fertilized eggs are known,
have been part of nocturnal life in the Philippines for as long as anyone
here can remember.
Filipino men like to slurp balut straight
from the egg whole -- feathers, beaks and all. It supposedly improves their
stamina in bed.
Traditionally, it is sold by roving street
vendors yelling their distinctive cry of "baluuut!" amid the tightly packed
alleyways of Philippine barrios. But Mr. Manalac believes balut has a potential
that extends far beyond its folk origins.
By using American-style franchising and
marketing, he plans on producing a gourmet version of balut that can be
sold to the plush, gated communities where the Philippines' middle classes
live.
He has already created exotic sauces, such
as curry and chili, to put some panache into the product, and he is working
on developing standardized outlets and a distinctive brand name. "Balut
is the local Viagra, and we're repackaging it for a new generation," he
says.
The Philippines has long shown a flair
for marketing, particularly franchising. Jollibee Foods Corp., of Manila,
still keeps McDonald's in second place in the local fast-food market, thanks
to sweet-and-spicy hamburgers and skillful branding.
In recent years, that flair has helped
extend the life of back-street foods that otherwise might have never made
it out of the ghetto. Tapioca drinks and deep-fried pigskin, for example,
have used the franchise model to tap unlikely markets in glitzy shopping
malls. The Philippine Association of Franchisers is growing rapidly, drawing
20 new applicants each month.
Mr. Manalac is aware that marketing and
branding will make or break his attempt to follow in Jollibee's footsteps.
His pilot outlet is near his home in the suburban Paranaque district of
Manila.
Called Knock-on-Wood, the homey shop-house
sports a wood sculpture of a head on which patrons tap their eggs open.
"The name is about bringing good luck, but also brand recognition," Mr.
Manalac explains. "When people say `knock-on-wood,' hopefully they'll think
of balut."
Borrowing a page from fast-food joints,
Mr. Manalac notes that success is all about consistency and maintaining
standards. He has put patents on his logo and convinced the Philippine
government to endorse the nutritional content of his aphrodisiacs. The
packaging is microwavable, meaning customers can take it home to snack
on before going to bed.
Mr. Manalac points out that he doesn't
have to create a market; he just has to leverage one that already exists.
"Eight out of 10 Filipino men eat balut," he estimates. "We're just making
it more accessible for the middle classes."
He claims his unusual calling visited him
around Easter last year. Tired of his nine-to-five job as an insurance
salesman, the 34-year-old asked his wife to give him space to think a while.
"Then, on Good Friday, the word `balut' came to me."
Soon after, Mr. Manalac went to shopping
malls to observe how other snack vendors were bringing in customers. He
hired a chef and started experimenting with different styles. Not everything
went according to plan. One of his early sauces was modeled on Peking Duck.
It sounds logical enough, but, he concedes, it tasted awful.
His attempt to create a Mexican balut,
an egg wrapped in a tortilla with some salsa, didn't fare much better.
"I'm sure there's a market for that one. It just needs some improvement,"
Mr. Manalac says.
Today, the pilot Knock-on-Wood sells curry,
chili, sweet-and-sour, and soy-sauce balut, and even a tempura variety.
The tempura batter, he says, disguises the look of the balut for those
who might be squeamish about downing a duck embryo. "It's for the Western
market," Mr. Manalac explains. The shop brings in around $200 a day, a
solid revenue stream in the Philippines.
Over the past seven months, he has also
carefully honed his franchising plan. He even yanked one stall out of a
shopping mall because he felt he still needed to fine-tune the recipes
and iron out quality-control glitches.
Now, Mr. Manalac says he is ready to go
mainstream. He has also enlisted the same franchising consultant who helped
a place called Figaro grow from a neighborhood coffee shop to a franchise
with branches across Manila and as far afield as Hong Kong.
Mr. Manalac would like to expand into areas
around the world where Filipinos congregate, such as Hong Kong and San
Francisco. "Maybe I can be the next Jollibee," he says.
For the time being, though, Mr. Manalac
is trying to pry open another undeveloped market that could double his
sales of balut. His secret?
"Women like it, too," he whispers.
Source: Wall Street Journal
via Dow Jones |